#AAA LITHIUM RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES FULL#
#AAA LITHIUM RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES PLUS#

So let’s say 14500 at 1000mAH, nominally “3.7” (from 4.2V down to, say, 3.0V at cutoff integrating is left as an exercise for the reader). So the converted cells are outputting a higher 1.5V, not 1.2V.

Thanks for the reality check.ĭon’t forget that eneloops (NiMH) are 1.2V, not 1.5V.

#AAA LITHIUM RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES PLUS#

But you’re right that 2700mAh plus extra circuitry isn’t realistic. I was thinking a 14500 is 1000mAh at 3.7V, so maybe 2000mA at 1.5V isn’t out of the question. Again, maybe not the same capacity if you’re chasing those “mAH”, but nigh-zero chance of leakage. Plop in a single LFP cell and a dummy cell for rock-solid 3.2V for the “pair”. One other possibility as far as ease of use would be for those devices (again, typically mice and remotes) that take 2 cells. The convenience and lack of typical corrosive incontinence is more than worth it. So you charge it every 4mos of typical usage vs every 6mos or 8mos. Most mice, remotes, etc., couldn’t care less what the nominal “mAH” rating is. Swap regular alkaleaks for an hour or so, or just wait that long while the little buggers recharge, then swap ’em back in. Some have usb micro ports, others charge just like a regular Li cell… but from straight 5V from the usb port!! Those “chargers” just feed unfettered 5V from the usb input to the cells, and the cell’s internal charger does its thing. Light… light… light… light… light… dark! Zero warning.įor an optical mouse, remote, etc., bfd. Was unnerving the first time I experienced it in the basement with my Xeno. But there’s that inevitable case of SIDS as the Li cell hits its cutoff. They’ll power AAA lights just fine, too, and not dim as SOC decreases like an alkaleak would. Hell, I couldn’t scrounge a pair of alkaleaks that had enough oomf to work a pulse-oximeter I got, remembered I had these lying around, plopped in a pair, and off we go! Anything you don’t want ruined by alkaleaks. But they’re perfect for optical mice, remotes, etc. Most are current-limited, as there’s only so much you can drain from a “10440” (of course a shorter version, similar to a 14430+reg being stuffed into a 14500 can).

#AAA LITHIUM RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES FULL#

And that’s all it takes, ie, zero warning (no dimming or anything) between delivering full power to going teats-up. They keep and maintain a solid 1.5V from fresh out of the charger right up to the second they drop dead. I got 2 sets (courtesy of vipon) which work beautifully. You are better off with decent NiMh if you don’t want alkaline. Those reviews either don’t know what they are doing, or they are planted reviews. This is noted in the details if you read them.

The electronic circuit interferes with the charging algorithm.Ī special 5v USB charge is required. I’ve tried a bunch of normal chargers to find out. This is WRONG! They will NOT charge properly in a ‘normal’ multi-chemistry charger. IMO, unless you get a REALLY good deal they are WAY too expensive for what they are unless you have a strong requirement for 1.5v continuous output.Īlong with that test being AA, he is charging them in a Zanflare charger. I have not heard any negative feedback but he’s not a ‘battery guy’. I do have a buddy that bought and is using Tenavolt AAA, so the size does exist. So, AAA has to be less, way less, probably like 500mAh. I have a bunch of Tenavolt AA, done a bunch of testing on them and they are around 1600mAh. Some have an additional USB charge port, which takes up more room. These batteries have to have electronics inside to convert to 1.5v, AND charge/discharge protection.

A GOOD 14500 (AA) Li-on only has about 1000mAh, and that is totally lithium.

Aaa lithium rechargeable batteries